Richmond Station’s trout is one rainbow worth chasing.
The fish: Richmond Station sources its rainbow trout from Kolapore Springs Fish Hatchery in Thornbury, Ontario. At the Ocean Wise–recommended fish farm, the trout are raised in spring-fed water full of fairy shrimp, which results in the trout’s vibrant red colour and exceptional flavour. “It’s a very good-quality fish, but a slow-growing one,” chef Carl Heinrich says. It takes about two years for each swimmer to get from egg stage to two pounds.
The method: The fish is slightly cured and portioned to around five ounces. It’s then cooked sous-vide and served medium-rare. The skin is removed and the entire fillet is brushed with house-made lemon marmalade.
The sauce: Heinrich’s tart topping consists of lemon peel that’s been cooked down with lemon juice and some sugar. To finish it off, the kitchen folds in some extra-virgin soybean oil, more lemon (this time, in segment form), chopped rosemary, and plenty of black pepper.
The rest: Fresh Ontario veggies round out the meal. Asparagus is quickly steamed—“I like asparagus crunchy!” Heinrich says—snap peas provide some pop, and baby potatoes are cooked with aromatics (shallots, garlic, herbs, and black pepper), then steamed and glazed with butter, herbs, and coarse salt. Heinrich tops the dish with “all the delicate herbs,” like chopped chives, parsley, and tarragon.
And for dessert… rainbow on a plate!
Richmond Station’s Snozzberry Sherbert ($9) is a billiard ball–sized sphere of tonka-bean ice cream (ribboned with apple, carrot, and elderberry) rested atop almond angel-food cake. It’s surrounded by hunks of sous-vide rhubarb and dollops of cranberry, Pernod, apricot, bitter orange, and sour beet— all topped with crunchy puffed tapioca. Pastry chef Farzam Fallah drew inspiration for the dish from Willy Wonka’s Everlasting Gobstopper. He says that “from the start to the end, each bite should taste different.”
$26. 1 Richmond St. W., 647-748-1444.