This lovely import is a flavourful champagne, and a cheaper antidote to the expensive ones we’re all so familiar with.
Until recently, Ontario’s imbibers could be forgiven for thinking that there were only four champagnes in all the world—the white one with the red stripe, the orange one and the two gold ones—the latter two reserved for truly special occasions. All were above $50 and, in fact, that’s how you knew you were having the genuine article, not some sparkling wine pretender.
Of late, however, things have proven to be increasingly complex, as even the LCBO has gotten into the “farmer fizz” game—small, often single, vineyard champagnes. The latest to the LCBO is Champagne Victoire Brut Prestige, a lovely import from Epernay that emits just enough of the yeasty-fruity funk associated with terroir-focused wines. It’s nice to actually taste some flavour in a champagne, since the big houses have notoriously refined all the rough edges out of the bottle. And all this flavour sets you back a piddling $39.95. There are at least 500 bottles in Ontario, which just might be enough to get us through the summer, so long as nobody hoards more than his or her fair share.