Fungus-infected corn, known as corn smut, is a delicacy in Mexico, where it’s called huitlacoche. Here, not so much. The owners of the just-opened modern Mexican restaurant Pachuco are hoping to change that with their huitlacoche taquitos.
The Basics
Smut is a fungus that grows on corn when the weather is especially humid. The fungus turns the kernels into white and black mush, which is edible and common in Mexican street food.
Taste
It’s something like a really strong mushroom with sweet undertones of corn. Co-owner Eren Fernandez says first timers might be overwhelmed by the flavour if they eat the corn on its own. In this dish, the huitlacoche is sautéed with onions, corn and jalapenos for an extra kick.
Where It’s From
Most American and Canadian farmers throw out their corn if it’s been infected, but in Mexico, the growth of huitlacoche is actually encouraged. “A lot of farmers [here] don’t know what to do with the corn, but in Mexico, people cheer when it happens.” Fernandez says. Pachuco imports its corn smut from Mexico, but the owners are looking for local, organic farmers who’ll supply them with infected corn when they come across it.
How It’s Served
Because it’s so potent on its own, the smut is served cazuela-style, meaning diners assemble and dress their own taquitos. “Some people want more spice, others want more filling,” explains Fernandez. “This is also so the taquitos don’t get cold or soggy at the table.”
What It’s Made Of
Homemade tortillas: Ground yellow-corn kernels are mashed into a corn-based dough (called masa), which is flattened and cooked on a hot griddle in the kitchen.
Chili Sauce: This very spicy sauce is made from pinkie-sized arbol chilies, roasted peanuts, garlic, onions and a splash of Mexican Sol beer.
Salsa: A mild salsa made of avocado and requesón (a ricotta-like cheese) helps mellow the intense taste of the corn.
$15 at Pachuco, 99 Danforth Ave., 416-466-8006, pachuco.ca.
